Rocky mountain high: Utah's snow-capped peaks attract Black skiers, the Olympic Games and more - travel

At first I was a bit wary of traveling to Utah--a state whose main religion, Mormonism, once taught that people from Africa were cursed by God. Luckily that doctrine was overturned in 1977, well in advance of the state's being selected to host the XIX Winter Olympics, set to take place February 8-24, and long before the National Brotherhood of Skiers (NBS) chose the Rocky Mountain region for The Summit, its biannual gathering of Black ski enthusiasts from across the country.

Perhaps the state has come to believe that the most important color is green. After all, NBS alone pumps more than $7 million into the local economy during its weeklong visits. Whatever the reason, take it from me, from the time you step off the plane you will feel welcome. Much like the warmth of the South, Utah hospitality feels genuine and congenial. Despite the fact that Blacks are a minuscule minority of the population, you will not be made to feel out of place.

The Rocky Mountains form a majestic chain stretching from Canada through central Mexico. Utah's ski country is nestled in the Wasatch and Uinta ranges of the Rockies and serves as home to the state's 14 ski resorts, most of which are less than a 45-minute drive apart. "You can choose a different resort every day and have a wide range of experiences," says Michael Washington, one of the lead organizers of the NBS Summit.

Snow-capped vistas provided a permanent backdrop throughout my stay in the Rockies. Utah has the country's highest annual snowfall--500 inches per year. Aptly called powder because of its less than 6-percent moisture content, the snow does not disappoint. It is the fluffiest, softest and lightest snow I've glided down in my 23 years of skiing.

Utah's powder attracts many first-time visitors. But it's the diverse and breathtaking alpine terrain, the variety of world-class resorts and restaurants, the wide range of family activities and, significantly, the affordable prices that keep people coming back. A weekend stay at one of the moderate resorts can be had for under $300. Whether you're on its slopes or off, Utah offers cheaper, steeper and deeper thrills than any other ski haven I know.

But you don't have to be a snow lover to have a great time in the Rockies. In Salt Lake City I stayed at the Grand America Hotel, Utah's preeminent luxury property. The charming hotel provides the perfect place to take a respite from a rigorous day of skiing or a full day of shopping. Snowbird Ski and Summer Resort, tucked in Little Cottonwood Canyon, is well-known for its first-class spa and fitness center. When I visited, a strapping Russian masseur worked my muscles with the skill of a potter--kneading the tension from my body and leaving me in a state of nirvana. At the Sundance Resort, home of the famous annual Sundance Film Festival, I enjoyed dining in the award-winning Tree Room, whose chef is Jason Knibb, a brother from Jamaica by way of California.

The natural beauty of Utah and the spirited NBS Summit are a marvelous combination. There are at least three adult parties a day and races and games that keep the kids happy. Summit week also typically includes a picnic on the slopes, a gospel event and a concert featuring popular entertainers such as Will Downing, Rachel Ferrell and Kenny Lattimore.

Blacks make up 1 percent of Utah's population of 2 million, but that number is increasing steadily. In the past decade, Utah boasts the fifth-fastest-growing African-American population in the country, according to the Utah Office of Black Affairs.

African-American heritage is soundly documented in Utah. Consider visiting the Family History Library and the Family Search Center, which houses the most comprehensive genealogical library in the world. You can discover the richness of your family tree with the recent release of the Freedman's Bank Records, the largest single database of lineage-linked African-American records known to exist.

The Distinctive African-American Art Gallery, also in Salt Lake City, hosts a Black History Month celebration, coinciding with the Olympics from February 8-25. "Illumination: A Cultural Spectrum" will include a poetry festival, jazz concerts, a lecture series and a special appearance by the renowned painter Charles Bibbs, who has been commissioned to create a piece in honor of Black Olympic athletes.

Utah has spent the past six years gearing up to host the Olympics. But the games are only one part of the festivities. Salt Lake City's 2002 Cultural Olympiad from January 25 through March 17 will feature concerts, performances and commissioned new works by a wide range of American artists including Savion Glover, Marcus Roberts and Judith Jamison.

If you're a film buff, you'll want to attend the Sundance Film Festival. Founded by Robert Redford in 1981, it is one of the most prestigious gatherings for independent films in North America. This year it will be held January 10-20. If you miss the festival, you can always catch many of the flicks that debut there at Sundance's Jim Santy Auditorium year-round.

I must admit my surprise that a progressive Afrocentric sister can travel to Utah for a ski vacation, have a fabulous time and stand ready to try it again. The thrills of Utah's winter wonderland met and exceeded my every expectation.

SITES AND ATTRACTIONS

Where to go in Salt Lake City:

* Family History Library, 35 N. West Temple St., (800) 453-3860, ext. 22331; Ids.org

* Family Search Center, Joseph Smith Memorial Building, 15 E. South Temple St., (801) 240-4085; familysearch.org

* Utah Museum of Fine Arts, 410 Campus Center Dr., (801) 581-7049; utah.edu/umfa

* The Distinctive African-American Art Gallery, 161 E. Broadway, 300 South, (801) 363-0745; [email protected] What to do:

* XIX Winter Olympics: Tickets and information, (801) 212-2002; saltlake2002.com

* National Brotherhood of Skiers, (773) 955-4100; nbs.org

Elaine Lee is the editor of Go Girl: The Black Woman's Book of Travel and Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press).

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