Market marvels

EVERY year, in market squares across Germany, pretty shanty towns of Alpine huts sprout up beneath the spires of Gothic churches, selling seasonal goodies.

There are exquisite handmade ornaments (ideal for the better class of Christmas tree) and exotic wreaths that reek of seductive herbs and spices.

There is linen, lace and porcelain (perfect last-minute presents for awkward relatives) plus beautifully sculpted toys and crib sets.

But by far the best thing about German Christmas markets is the food.

There are waffles stuffed with fluffy cream, mountains of marzipan and chocolate, huge piles of Stollen (German Christmas cake) and spicy gingerbread Lebkuchen. The drink's not bad, either: crowds gather around alfresco bars serving hot Gluhwein (mulled wine ), quite literally drinking in the festive spirit.

A German Christmas market may not restore your belief in Santa Claus, but it should send you home with enough goodwill to survive the yuletide marathon to follow.

Bamberg A Unesco World Heritage site, Bamberg's Christmas market stalls are complemented by many Nativity scenes, and its Renaissance architecture lends this Baroque city an Italianate air (www.bamberg.info).

Bonn Beethoven's birthplace is a quietly attractive university town whose civic centre doubles as a giant advent calendar, with a new window lit up every day (www.bonn-region.de).

Cologne The site of Germany's greatest Gothic cathedral hosts half-adozen Christmas markets, including a "mediaeval" one outside the Chocolate Museum and one on a riverboat on the Rhine (www.

koelntourismus.de).

Dresden Germany's oldest Christmas market dates back to 1434.

Specialities include hand-blown glass baubles and handcarved wooden curios from the Erzgebirge mountains (www.

dresdentourist.de).

Leipzig The city of Schumann and Mendelssohn hosts one of Saxony's finest Christmas markets and the world's biggest Advent calendar, 857 metres square.

Its centre point is St Nicholas's Church, where the peaceful revolution of 1989 began (www.leipzig.de).

Rothenburg ob der Tauber This mediaeval citadel is like a living Christmas card - romantic, antiquated and ridiculously picturesque. The Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village, in the old town, combines a comprehensive shop and an informative museum (www.rothenburg.de).

Rudesheim am Rhein Renowned for its wine, Rudesheim is quintessentially German but at Christmas acquires a more international air.

Its 120 stalls represent a dozen different countries, selling Christmas fare from around the world (www.ruedesheim.de).

. William Cook travelled as a guest of the German National Tourist Office (020 7317 0908, www.

germanytourism.de) and Lufthansa (0870 8377 747, www.lufthansa.

co.uk). Lufthansa flies daily from Heathrow to 20 German cities from Pounds 61 return.

(c)2005. Associated Newspapers Ltd.. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.