"�� if Good, Low-Priced California Wine is going to be created, it's going to be from the central part of the state ��."

Editor:

I'd like to thank you for printing Mike Steinberger's "Why Is There No Such Thing As A Good, Low-Priced California Wine?" (January, 2004, Opinion/Analysis.) Mr. Steinberger raises some interesting points about the current state of the wine world in the year 2004.

To begin, I would like to say that basically I agree with his premise that there is an appalling paucity of good, sound California wine in the $15 and less price zone. This is something I have wondered about for some years. But I think Mike's preoccupation with California's political situation and cult wines is off base.

The problem with the lack of high quality, good value wines has very little to do with wine from the coastal zones of California. I do remember when fine red wine was bottled by Foppiano in small jugs--but this was many years ago. It is possible that some enterprising individual could recreate a Carignane-Zin-Petite table wine from Northern Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake counties, but this would be the exception to the rule.

Basically, if good, low-priced California wine is going to be created, it's going to be from the central part of the state, where the yields are high and the price of grapes low. I've often thought that if someone in the San Joaquin Valley would grow organic, good clone, moderately-cropped Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache (a blend) and made a healthy, tasty, good-value product, this would be loved by consumers (and restaurants). I know that if such a product resembled a simple but lovable Faugeres, Fitou or Corbieres but was made in California and offered at a good price, why, I would consume it!

Your Opinion Matters. Send Letters to the Editor to Wines & Vines, 1800 Lincoln Ave., San Rafael, Calif. 94901, e-mail [email protected] or fax (415) 453-2517.

s/ Geoff Smith

St. Helena Wine Merchants

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