Picks from the pumpkin patch: seasonal fresh pumpkin can be so much more than pie - includes recipes and a pumpkin primer - Cover Story

Nancy Ross Ryan

OCTOBER is smack dab in the middle of pumpkin season. Unlike its cousin, winter squash, which is available almost all year long, pumpkin is a distinctive fall-winter pleasure, to be enjoyed from September through December. The rest of the year, when absence makes the heart grow fonder, we can enjoy commercially canned pumpkin, pumpkin that we have frozen or winter squashes that are pumpkin taste-a-likes. And we can enjoy them in hundreds of different ways, far beyond pumpkin pie.

Despite its popularity in this country as pastry fodder, other cuisines feature pumpkin in savvy dishes. How did Americans become so fixated on pumpkin pie while the rest of the world was revering in pumpkin curries, soups, stews and pumpkin paired with beans, greens, rice and pasta? Pumpkin was mercifully plentiful when the Pilgrims came to Plymouth Colony, helping them survive the winter of 1623. In its honor they wrote: "We have pumpkin at morning and pumpkin at noon, if it were not for pumpkin we would be undoon." But those same Pilgrims brought with them from England a taste for familiar spices--cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger--and a love of rich meat pies. At some point they put pumpkin into the culinary equation and voile, the American pumpkin pie. Unfortunately, the American pumpkin has languished in near obscurity ever since, relegated to guest appearances at Thanksgiving dinner.

Before you start eyeing that jack-o'-lantern for supper, however, note that not all pumpkins are created equal: some are for carving and some for cooking. Deeming them stringy and watery, every cookbook consulted, every chef and expert interviewed said emphatically, "Don't cook with Halloween pumpkins!" But Karen Mangum, R.D., author of Life s Simple Pleasures, Fine Veunetarian Cooking For Sharing And Celebration (Harvest Press, 199 6), says, "If you've got them, why not use them? I cook with mine all the time." Mangum seeds, slices and bakes hers, and says they're delicious. Maybe, when it comes to jack-o'-lanterns, satisfactory cooking results are the luck of the draw.

To further complicate matters, some pumpkins that are good for cooking, are also good-looking. Instead of Halloween candy, Karen Caplan, president of Frieda's Finest Produce, Los Angeles, hands out tiny mini-pumpkins to trick-or-treaters who come knocking at her door. "I must give out 500 little pumpkins a year. They're not only adorable, they're delicious."

This Halloween, give yourself a real treat. Discover the unique flavor of fresh pumpkin in the recipes that follow for savvy soup to sweet mousse, with lots more in between.

Baked Pumpkin

Look for pumpkins that are heavy for their size, with hard, smooth skins.

1 small cooking pumpkin. 3 to 6 lbs. or 1 large cooking pumpkin 7 to 12 lbs. 1 cup water 1 to 2 Tbs. butter or margarine or olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

PREHEAT OVEN to 400 degrees. Cut pumpkin in half lengthwise. Using melon bailer, scoop out seeds and stringy fibers down to flesh. Discard seeds and fibers.

For small pumpkins, cut halves in half again, resulting in 4 pieces, weighing between 3/4 pound to 1 1/2 pounds per piece.

For larger pumpkins, CUt halves in half lengthwise, then cut quarters in half, resulting in 8 pieces, each weighing between 7/8 to 1 1/2 pounds per piece, depending on size of pumpkin.

Place pumpkin pieces in lightly oiled 9- by 13-inch baking pan, skin side down, cut side up. Pour in water. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, lightly oiled on one side, oiled side down.

Bake until pumpkin flesh tests uniformly tender when fork is inserted, about 1 hour.

Remove from oven. Remove foil. Brush cut halves with butter, margarine or oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Return to oven until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Makes 4 to 8 servings.

HELPFUL HINT: To microwave, cook slices, in single layer on plate, covered, for about 10 minutes. Cook halves or large pieces, skin side down in baking dish with 1/2 cup water, covered, for about 15 minutes.

VARIATION: Mix packed dark brown sugar with water in equal amounts. Whisk to dissolve. Brush liberally over cut surfaces and sprinkle sparsely with nutmeg before returning to oven.

Alternatively, brush cut surfaces liberally with maple syrup before returning to oven.

PER 1-CUP SERVING: 65 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 9G CARB.; 8MG CHOL.; 268MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN

Pumpkin Puree

Pureed pumpkin can be added to pancakes, mousse, soups, frostings, breads, etc.

3/4 lb. baked pumpkin

LET BAKED PUMPKIN pieces cool until they can be handled. Scoop and scrape out pumpkin flesh. Mash well with fork in bowl, or pulse in food processor or blender to puree. Makes about 1 cup puree.

PER 1-CUP SERVING: 49 CAL., 2G PROT., 0.2G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT); 12G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin Soup

Too many pumpkin soups rely on milk or cream for flavor and texture. This one depends upon vegetable broth, aromatic spices and fresh pumpkin puree for great flavor and texture. Fresh puree and homemade vegetable broth provide the best flavor. If you use canned pumpkin, boost the flavor by sauteing garlic, ginger and I teaspoon curry powder with the onion.

1 Tbs. light olive oil 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. ground coriander 1/4 tsp. cinnamon 2 cups diced yellow onion 2 cups fresh pumpkin puree or 15-oz. can pumpkin puree 6 cups vegetable stock Salt to taste 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallion 1/2 cup toasted croutons

HEAT OIL in 3 1/2 qt. saucepan. Add dry spices, stirring to warm but do not brown, about 1 minute.

Add onion, stirring to coat. Saute over medium heat until onion is soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add pumpkin puree and stock; stir to mix. Bring to boil. Lower heat to simmer. Simmer, covered, until soup is slightly thickened and flavors are melded, about 20 to 25 minutes. Salt to taste.

Pour soup into large bowl. Puree in batches in food processor or blender. Return to pan. Heat before serving. Garnish with scallions and croutons. Makes 8 servings.

PER 1-CUP SERVING 81 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0.3G SAT. FAT); 15G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 353MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin Bread

This delicious yeast-risen pumpkin bread is a welcome alternative to the sweet, rich, quick pumpkin breads so often served with coffee and ten. It makes fine sandwiches and fabulous toast.

1/4 oz. pkg. active dry yeast (about 1 Tbs. ) 1/2 cup warm water (110 degrees) 1 tsp. salt 2 tsp. caraway seed 2 Tbs. molasses (not blackstrap) 1 cup fresh or canned pumpkin puree 3 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour Additional flour for kneading

IN LARGE BOWL mix yeast and water, stirring to combine and dissolve. Add salt, caraway seed and molasses, stirring to mix.

Add pumpkin puree, stirring to mix. Add flour all at once. Stir with large, sturdy spoon until all flour is incorporated and dough leaves sides of bowl.

Turn out onto floured surface. Knead until dough is smooth and satiny, about 5 to 8 minutes.

Lightly oil bowl. Return dough to bowl. Cover with clean, damp tea towel. Set in warm place (85 degrees) to rise.

Let rise until doubled, about I hour. Punch down, shape into loaf. Place in lightly oiled bread pan. Cover with clean, damp tea towel. Let rise until doubled and indentation made with thumb remains.

Bake in preheated 400 degree oven until browned on top and bottom sounds hollow when tapped, about 35 minutes. Remove from pan. Let cool on wire rack. Makes 1 loaf.

VARIATIONS: Substitute 2 tablespoons brown sugar for molasses, and 1/2 cup raisins for caraway seed. Add 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon to liquid ingredients. Substitute whole wheat or rye flour for 1/3 of the white flour in original recipe.

To make pumpkin-cinnamon loaf, when dough is punched down, instead of shaping it into a loaf, stretch the dough into a rectangular shape. Sprinkle the dough with a mixture of sugar and cinnamon, then roll dough up from short side to form a loaf. Place in loaf pan and proceed with recipe.

PER SLICE: 130 CAL.; 4G PROT.: 0.4G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT): 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.: 180MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin Pancakes

1 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour 1 Tbs. baking powder 4/2 tsp. salt 1 Tbs. light brown sugar 1 egg 3/4 cup milk or soymilk 4/2 cup pumpkin puree 1 Tbs. vegetable oil 1/4 tsp. cinnamon

IN LARGE SIFTER place flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; sift into large bowl.

In separate bowl beat together egg, milk or soymilk, pumpkin puree and oil. Add to dry ingredients, stirring with rubber spatula to combine. Do not overmix.

Drop by spoonful onto preheated nonstick griddle or skillet. Cook over medium-high heat until bubbles appear on surface. Turn once; cook on other side. Serve immediately. Makes 10 5-inch pancakes.

VARIATION: Substitute 1/3 cup whole wheat flour for 1/3 cup white flour. Increase milk to 1 cup.

PER PANCAKE 83 CAL.; 3G PROT.: 3G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT): 12G CARB.: 19MG CHOL.; 268MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

Pumpkin Vinaigrette

Move over mustard and make room for this delicious pumpkin salad dressing, which is especially good over mixed baby greens. As with all salad dressings, the secret is to make it fresh, just before serving.

1 clove garlic, minced 1 tsp. sugar 1/2 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 Tbs. pumpkin puree 2 Tbs. rice vinegar (see glossary, p. 134) 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

COMBINE FIRST SIX INGREDIENTS in small bowl; mix with whisk to dissolve sugar and salt. Add oil; whisk until incorporated. Makes about cup dressing.

PER TABLESPOON: 63 CAL. 0.1G PROT.: 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT): 1G CARB.: 0 CHOL.: 133MG SOD.: 0.1G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin-Stuffed Jumbo Shells with Bread Crumb Topping

Trendy Italian restaurants frequently serve pumpkin-stuffed ravioli with brown butter as an appetizer. If you follow the cooking technique given, the pasta shells won't crack during cooking.

Pasta: 12-oz. box jumbo shells 4 qts. water 2 tsp. salt

Filling: 2 1/2 cups fresh pumpkin puree 2/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted in dry skillet, chopped 1/8 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Topping: 1/2 cup butter or margarine 1/2 clove minced garlic 1/3 cup soft bread crumbs, lightly toasted in dry skillet 1 tsp. minced fresh sage leaf or tsp. dry sage Italian parsley for garnish

PASTA: Select 18 perfect, unbroken, uncracked shells from package. Lay out on clean towel. Bring water seasoned with salt to rolling boil in large, at least 5 1/2-quart pot.

Add shells, one by one, while stirring bottom of pot with flat edge of wooden or plastic spatula. When all shells have been added, continue stirring from bottom gently to keep shells from sticking. Bring water back to a boil. Cook for 11 minutes, scraping bottom occasionally.

Place pot of water and pasta in sink under cold running water. Stir gently from bottom while cold water stops cooking process and replaces hot water.

Lift shells carefully with cupped palms and place in colander to drain.

FILLING: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large bowl combine pumpkin puree, almonds, nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Lightly oil 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Stuff each shell with about 2 tablespoons pumpkin mixture. Arrange, open side up, not touching, in baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil that has been lightly oiled, oiled side down. Bake until filling is heated through, about 30 minutes.

TOPPING: Meanwhile, add butter or margarine to small skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until butter or margarine begins to brown but not burn. Stir in garlic. Saute only until garlic becomes soft and translucent; remove from heat. Add toasted crumbs and fresh or dried sage; mix thoroughly with fork.

To serve, place 3 shells on heated plate. Top each with 1 teaspoon of crumb-butter mixture. Garnish plate with parsley. If desired, pass freshly grated Parmesan cheese at the table. Makes 6 appetizer servings of 3 shells each.

HELPFUL HINT: Recipe can be doubled to serve as a main course.

PER 3-SHELL APPETIZER SERVING: 328 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 25 G TOTAL FAT (11 G SAT. FAT); 23 G CARB.; 44MG CHOL.; 373MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN

Pumpkin Curry

The combination of pumpkin and curry is a winning one. Look for curry powder with many ingredients, the more ingredients the better the flavor. Small dishes of toasted coconut, roasted peanuts, chopped scallions, chopped tomatoes and mango chutney allow everyone to garnish to taste.

2 Tbs. vegetable oil 2 tsp. mild curry powder 4 cups peeled pumpkin meat cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups diced yellow onion 3 cups vegetable stock 1/2 cup golden raisins Salt to taste 2 Tbs. cornstarch 1/4 cup water 8 cups cooked white or brown rice 1 cup dry roasted peanuts 3/4 cup dried sweetened flaked coconut. toasted in dry skillet 1/2 cup finely chopped scallions, white and green parts 1 cup prepared bottled chutney (see glossary p. 134) 1 cup chopped, seeded cherry tomatoes

IN LARGE, heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil over medium heat; stir curry powder in to toast but not burn. Add pumpkin cubes, tossing to coat. Saute over medium heat for 5 minutes, tossing and stirring.

Add onion; toss to coat while sauteing for 5 minutes.

Add stock, raisins and salt; cover. Simmer until pumpkin is tender but not falling apart, about 15 minutes.

Dissolve cornstarch in water; stir into curry. Cook and stir until sauce is clear. Serve over white or brown rice. Present garnishes in separate bowls with spoons so diners may choose toppings for curry and serve themselves. Makes 6 servings.

VARIATION: Instead of mild curry powder, choose a hot Madras-style curry powder or add 1 seeded, minced jalapeno pepper along with onions.

PER SERVING 365 CAL.; 6G PROT.: 5G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 75G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 144MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin Stir-Fry

Pumpkin holds its own not only with curries but with other Asian spices as well. This stirfry is a colorful, satisfying main dish needing only rice to complete it. The real work--cutting ingredients--is done before cooking. Remember to cut all ingredients the same thickness and to keep the wok or skillet very hot.

1 Tbs. vegetable or peanut oil 1 Tbs. minced garlic 1 Tbs. minced ginger root 4 cups peeled pumpkin cut in 1-inch coins, 1/4 inch thick 2 cups celery, cut diagonally, 1/4 inch thick 1 cup red bell pepper, cut into matchsticks about 2 inches long and 1/4 inch thick 1 large bunch scallions, trimmed, washed, diagonally sliced into 1 inch long pieces 1/2 lb. firm tofu, pressed and drained, cut into matchsticks about 2 inches long and 1/4 inch thick 1 1/2 cups vegetable stock 4 Tbs. tamari (see glossary. p. 134) 1 tsp. sugar 4 Tbs. sherry 2 Tbs. rice vinegar (see glossary. p. 134) 4 tsp. cornstarch 2 Tbs. water 2 tsp. sesame oil (see glossary. p. 134) 8 to 10 cups cooked white or brown rice

HEAT OIL in large wok or heavy-bottom skillet to almost smoking. Add garlic, stir and toss with spatula until aromatic, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add ginger; stir and toss 30 seconds.

Add pumpkin. Cook over high heat stirring and tossing for 5 minutes. Add celery; stir and toss 2 minutes. Add bell pepper; stir and toss 1 minute. Add scallions; stir and toss 1 minute. Add tofu; stir and toss I minute. Add stock, tamari, sugar, sherry and rice vinegar; stir and toss to combine.

Cover wok or skillet; cook over high heat until pumpkin is tender but not falling apart, about 10 minutes. Lift lid once or twice and stir from bottom.

Mix cornstarch in water; add to vegetable mixture. Cook until thickened. Stir in sesame oil. Serve over white or brown cooked rice. Makes 6 servings.

PER SERVING: 334 CAL.; 10G PROT: 5G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 63G CARB.; 0 CHOL; 809MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN

Pumpkin and Pumpkin Seed Burgers

This recipe is adapted from VEGETARIAN BURGERS, by Bharti Kirchner (HarperPerennial, 1996). Don't be daunted by the ingredient list; this burger is worth the effort. Good curry powder can be substituted for Thai yellow curry paste.

1/2 cup quinoa, rinsed and drained 1 cup water 1 Tbs. vegetable oil 1 cup diced onion 1 medium green bell pepper. seeded and chopped 2 tsp. Thai yellow curry paste or curry powder 1 cup fresh or canned pumpkin puree 3 Tbs. sweetened shredded or flaked coconut 1/2 cup shelled pumpkin seeds. toasted and ground (see note) 1 1/2 cups bread crumbs, divided Salt to taste

BRING QUINOA and water to a boil in medium saucepan. Cover and cook until all water is absorbed and quinoa is light and fluffy, 10 to 15 minutes. Measure 1 cup. Retain the rest for later use.

Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Cook onion until soft, about 4 minutes. Add bell pepper and curry paste or powder; stir to distribute evenly. Reduce heat and cook, covered, until bell pepper is tender, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add pumpkin. Cook, uncovered, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring constancy. Add coconut; mix well. Remove from heat. Transfer to large bowl.

Add ground pumpkin seeds and 1 cup bread crumbs; mix well. Season to taste with salt. Form into patties 3 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, mixing in more bread crumbs if patties don't hold their shape.

Saute in lightly oiled skillet, turning once, until browned on both sides and cooked through, about 5 to 7 minutes. Check frequently to prevent burning.

If desired, serve on hamburger buns or warmed sourdough bread with shredded lettuce, onion slices and honey-ginger mustard. Makes 8 burgers.

NOTE: Shelled pumpkin seeds can be found in natural food stores or in Mexican markets, where they are also known as pepitas. Toast them in a hot, dry skillet and grind them in a food processor or electric coffee grinder.

PER PATTY: 223 CAL.; 10G PROT.; 10G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 313MG SOD.; 5G FIBER.

Pumpkin-Cocoa Cake with Pumpkin-Orange Frosting

Cake: 1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter or margarine 1 cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed 2 eggs 1 tsp. vanilla 2 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 2 Tbs. cocoa 1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice 1/2 tsp. salt 1 1/2 cups fresh pumpkin puree or 1 cup canned puree thinned with 1/2 cup water

Frosting: 4 Tbs. butter or margarine 4 cups powdered sugar 1/2 cup pumpkin puree 1 tsp. vanilla 1/4 tsp. orange oil (see glossary, p. 134) or

1 tsp. grated orange zest

CAKE: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large bowl or bowl of heavy-duty mixer, cream butter until very light and fluffy; add sugar. Continue to beat, scraping sides down, until light brown in color and very fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and vanilla; beat until creamy and fluffy.

In large sifter, place flour, baking powder, baking soda, cocoa, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Sift into large bowl.

With beaters running, alternately add dry ingredients and pumpkin puree. Batter will be thick and creamy.

Divide evenly between two 9-inch diameter cake pans that have been sprayed and floured and have bottoms lined with sprayed, floured wax paper circles. Smooth surface carefully to level.

Bake in middle of oven until cake springs back when lightly touched with finger and wooden pick inserted in center comes out dry, about 25 minutes.

Remove pans from oven to wire rack. Let cool in pans until room temperature.

FROSTING: In mixer bowl, cream butter or margarine until light and fluffy. Add about 1 cup sugar. Beat until butter is completely incorporated.

Add rest of sugar and pumpkin puree, vanilla and orange oil or zest. Beat until frosting is thick enough to frost cake. Makes enough to frost top and sides of a 9-inch two-layer cake.

Place first layer on plate. Frost top and sides with 1/2 orange frosting. Top with second layer; frost top and sides. Makes a 9-inch layer cake; 10 to 12 wedges.

HELPFUL HINTS: If using grated orange zest, add after frosting is mixed, using spoon to stir and blend. If zest is added while frosting is being beaten, it tends to stick to beaters.

PER SLICE: 490 CAL.; 5G PROT. 16G TOTAL FAT (9G SAT. FAT); 86G CARB.; 71MG CHOL.; 352MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. OVO-LACTO

Pumpkin Mousse

2 10 1/2-oz. pkgs. Japanese-style firm silken tofu, drained 1 cup fresh or canned pumpkin puree 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 cup brown sugar 3/4 tsp. pumpkin pie spice 1 tsp. vanilla 1 cup gingersnap cookie crumbs

PLACE AIL INGREDIENTS except gingersnap crumbs in food processor or blender. Process, scraping sides, until sugar is dissolved and all ingredients are incorporated.

Layer into dessert dishes as follows: mousse, crumbs, mousse, crumbs. If desired, garnish with gingersnap cookie standing upright in mousse. Makes 8 servings of about 1/2 cup each.

HELPFUL HINT: To make gingersnap crumbs, place cookies between two layers of plastic wrap and pound and roll with rolling pin or process in food processor or blender.

PER 1/2-CUP SERVING: 142 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (0.2G SAT. FAT); 22G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 150MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN

RELATED ARTICLE: Pumpkin Primer

Purchasing

* For carving: Large, ribbed, orange pumpkins sold by the ton around Halloween are usually for carving only. Variously called jack-o'-lantern, Cinderella, Funny Face and Big Max, they are all edible but lack the fine texture and deep flavor of smaller pumpkins grown for cooking. However, there are individual exceptions.

* For cooking: Look for small 3-pound. to large, 1 2-pound pumpkins cultivated for kitchen use, with more and firmer flesh, smaller seed cavity and better flavor. There are also mini pumpkins, weighing between 4 ounces to 6 ounces, called Jack-Be-Little and Munchkin pumpkins, that are sweet and delicious.

* Farmers' markets carry several varieties of cooking pumpkins, going under names such as New England Pie, Spirit Hybrid, Sugar Pie, Tricky Jack, Triple Treat and Large Cheese. More than 30 varieties exist although most markets carry only a few. Skins may be orange, variegated green, yellow, white or cream. Some are ribbed, and others are smooth. They can be round or oblong. Your best source of information is a knowledgeable produce person or pumpkin farmer. * Quality check: Look for pumpkins with hard skins and no sign of softness. Pumpkins should be heavy for their size. and have a stem 2 to 3 inches long.

* Season: Depending on where you live. pumpkins may be available in late August through late December.

Storing and handling

* Store in cool, dry, well-ventilated place (45 degrees to 50 degrees), resting off the ground on paper-lined shelves, not touching each other. For lack of a suitable garage or root cellar, purchase only as much pumpkin as you will use in two to three weeks. A wicker basket is a good storage container.

* Cut pieces of pumpkin will keep, wrapped and refrigerated, about three to four days.

Preparation

* Pumpkin can be baked, steamed, boiled, microwaved, stewed, braised, sauteed and deep-fried. It can also be frozen in pieces and as puree.

* To cut and peel raw pumpkin, balance pumpkin on side, stem end facing away. Use large French chef knife, blade point toward stem, handle toward you. Hold knife by handle, keeping fingers of both hands away from blade. With rubber or wooden mallet or hammer securely padded, rap firmly on knife blade near handle until you drive it into pumpkin, splitting it in half. Scoop out seeds and fibers and discard. Then halve and/or quarter pumpkin using same technique. To peel, cut pieces into narrow strips. Pare with sharp paring knife. Chop slices into desired size and shape.

* To freeze puree, put in airtight plastic bags or containers with expansion room and freeze. To freeze pieces, seed, peel and chop into chunks or slices. Blanch briefly in boiling water, plunge into cold water, then drain. Pat dry. Place in airtight containers with expansion room. Chill, then freeze.

Yield

* 3/4 pound of raw pumpkin, seeded and cleaned but not peeled yields about 1 cup puree when cooked. 1 1/2 pounds raw pumpkin, seeded and peeled, yields about 3 cups diced flesh.

Nutrition

* Pumpkins are high in vitamin A (52,000 International Units per cup), low in sodium and calories. A half-cup serving cooked has less than 50 calories.

Pumpkin understudies

* When true pumpkin is not available or out of season. substitute winter squash, listed in order of most pumpkinlike flavor and texture: buttercup, golden nugget, carnival and butternut.

COPYRIGHT 1996 Vegetarian Times, Inc. All rights reserved.
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