United tastes of America - Thanksgiving menu; recipes - Cover Story

Sarah Bush

Thanksgiving was not something I celebrated for the first 35 years of my life. Growing up in the London suburbs, I was only vaguely aware of this holiday "across the pond." One year, however, I spent the pre-Christmas college vacation working in the food hall of Harrod's, the well-known department store. I will never forget the panic on the faces of the Americans just before closing time on November 26th as they rushed through, desperately seeking canned pumpkin, cranberries, butternut squash and pecans.

I eventually moved to the United States, and over the years I've come to understand the true meaning of this day of gratitude. I've spent it happily in the company of friends from many different countries and cultures who have lent a unique flair to the classic ingredients so avidly pursued that fall day in England. When I began to plan the Vegetarian Times feast, I decided to create a meal that would acknowledge and represent the many nationalities living together in this great country. I came up with a menu based on traditional dishes, but gave each its own ethnic twist. You will undoubtedly have some of your own favorite recipes to add, so feel free to adjust our menu. You're sure to love the end result--a melting pot of rich flavor.

Time Plan

Up to 4 weeks before

* Make Leek and Watercress Soup, and freeze.

* Make Cranberry-Orange Compote without liqueur. Freeze.

* Think about your table: linens, china, crystal and silverware. Arrange to rent or borrow any needed items.

1 week before

* Make Rich Almond Cake. Wrap in foil and store in airtight container.

3 days before

* Make Cranberry-Orange Compote if not frozen. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Or, transfer frozen compote to refrigerator.

2 days before

* Make Pumpkin Flans. Cover tightly and refrigerate.

1 day before

* If not frozen, make Leek and Watercress Soup. Chill, cover tightly and refrigerate. Or, transfer frozen soup to refrigerator.

* Cook rice for Coulibiac. Coot, cover tightly and refrigerate.

* Make Red Wine Gravy. Cool, cover tightly and refrigerate.

* Make dill sauce for green beans but do not add dill. Cool, cover and refrigerate.

Early on Thanksgiving day

* Make Coulibiac up to the point of baking; refrigerate,

* Prepare vegetables for Irish Mashed Potatoes. Keep potatoes in water and green onions and kale tightly covered.

* Prepare green beans for cooking.

* Prepare Sweet Potato Bake for cooking.

* Boil carrots for Cranberry-Carrot Saute; set aside.

2 hours before serving

* Bake Coulibiac.

* Make Emerald Mashed Potatoes and keep covered.

* Cook Sweet Potato Bake. Keep warm.

* Finish Cranberry-Carrot Saute.

30 minutes before serving

* Reheat soup.

* Finish Dilled Green Beans.

* Reheat gravy, Emerald Mashed Potatoes and Cranberry-Carrot Saute.

Leek and Watercress Soup

6 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE

Before modern cultivation, the height of the watercress season in Britain was spring. Steam trains would travel "The Watercress Line" from Hampshire, bringing the fresh leafy bunches to London's Covent Garden market.

1 1/2 Tbs. vegetable oil
5 medium leeks (white and pale green
  parts only), chopped (4 cups)
1 medium onion, peeled and
  chopped (1 cup)
1 large potato, peeled and diced
  (1 cup)
1 bunch watercress, trimmed and
  chopped (2 cups)
5 cups vegetable stock or water
2 Tbs. vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
Chopped chives for garnish

In large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add leeks and onion and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add potato and watercress. Cook until wilted, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Add stock, bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potato is tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in Worcestershire sauce and season with salt and pepper.

In food processor or blender, puree soup in batches. Serve warm or chilled garnished with chopped chives if desired.

Can be made the day before or frozen for up to 1 month.

Per serving: 255 cal.; 7g prot.; 7g total fat (1g SAT. fat); 43g carb.; 0 chol.; 1,377mg sod.; 4g fiber.

Coulibiac

10 TO 12 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

Russians love to eat and this is an adaptation of a traditional dish, served at family gatherings. Different ingredients including hard cooked eggs and rice would often form the filling, all encased in a golden crispy crust. Here, fragrant field mushrooms and green cabbage flavored with garlic and juniper berries join with the rice to create the layers of this impressive celebratory entree.

Filling

1 tsp. dried juniper berries
  (see glossary, p. 119)
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/4 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. vegetable oil
1/2 small head green cabbage,
  finely shredded (6 cups)
20 oz. cremini mushrooms,
  chopped (8 cups)
1 Tbs. chopped fresh sage leaves
  or 1 tsp. dried
Salt and freshly ground black
  pepper to taste
2 cups peeled, sliced parsnips
1 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme or
  1 tsp. dried
2 cups cooked brown rice

1 pkg. (17 1/4-oz.) frozen puff pastry,
  thawed (see glossary, p. 119)
1 beaten egg mixed with 1 tsp. water
  or milk

Filling: Using a mortar and pestle, crush juniper berries, garlic and salt into a paste. In large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add garlic paste and stir-fry 1 minute. Add cabbage and cook, stirring until coated with oil and paste mixture. Cover and cook 2 minutes until wilted and bright green. Transfer to bowl and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon in skillet, add mushrooms, sage, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms soften, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Wipe out skillet, and heat reamining 2 teaspoons oil over medium heat. Add parsnips and thyme and cook, stirring often, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 [degrees] F. Unfold one puff pastry sheet and place on lightly floured surface. Roll out into a 14-inch square, then cut dough into a 14-inch circle. Transfer circle to ungreased 8 1/2-inch springform pan and press gently to fit into bottom and side. There will be some overhang.

Spoon half the rice over pastry. Using slotted spoon, layer mushrooms over rice, then cover with cabbage, remaining rice and parsnips. Carefully fold pastry over-hang over filling. Brush edges with beaten egg or milk.

Unfold second puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Roll out slightly, then cut out into an 8 1/2-inch circle. Place the circle of dough over top and press edges to seal. Brush top with egg wash and using a small sharp knife or razor blade, slash top in a cross-hatch pattern.

Bake 35 to 40 minutes. When well browned, loosely cover top with foil. Reduce heat to 350 [degrees] F.; remove side of pan and brush side with egg wash. Bake until sides are golden, about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before serving. Cut into wedges and serve with Red Wine Gravy (see recipe below).

Per serving: 377 cal.; 7g prot.; 21g total fat (7g sat. fat); 40g carb.; 1mg chol.; 204mg sod.; 2g fiber.

Red Wine Gravy

MAKES 2 CUPS DAIRY FREE

Serve this rich sauce: with the Coulibiac (see recipe, p. 44) or with roasted or steamed vegetables.

2 tsp. vegetable off
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely
  chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
2 Tbs. flour
2 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup vegetable stock or water
Salt and freshly 9round black pepper
  to taste

In medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, carrot and celery and cook, stirring often, until soft, 5 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Add tomatoes, wine and stock or water. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Pour sauce through fine-meshed sieve set over bowl, pressing vegetables with back of spoon to release juices.

PER 1/4-CUP SERVING: 60 cal.; 1g PROW.; 1g total fat (0. sat. fat); 7g carb.; 0 chol.; 14mg sod.; 1g fiber.

Cranberry-Carrot Saute

6 SERVINGS LACTO

Dried cranberries, available in most supermarkets, add a festive note to these simple glazed carrots.

1 lb. carrots, peeled and cut into 2 1/2-by
  1/2-inch sticks
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. brown sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
3/4 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 cup orange juice
2 Tbs. butter
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1/3 cup coarsely chopped pecans for garnish

Place carrots and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cook 10 minutes or until carrots are tender. Drain.

Combine brown sugar, cinnamon, mustard and remaining salt in small mixing bowl. Add orange juice.

Melt butter in large skillet. Add carrots and orange juice mixture. Cook 2 to 3 minutes or until carrots are coated, stirring frequently. Add cranberries; cook until heated through. Garnish with pecans.

Per serving: 192 cal.; 2g prot.; 11g total fat (4g sat. fat); 22g carb.; 16mg chol.; 366mg sod.; 5g fiber.

Emerald Mashed Potatoes

6 TO 8 SERVINGS LACTO

This comfort food is something Irish cooks make very well! Creamy mashed potatoes, well seasoned and laced with kale, are perfect just like this.

6 large baking potatoes, peeled and cut
  into even-size pieces
1 1/2 cups low-fat milk
1 bunch green onions, trimmed and
  finely sliced
4 cups finely shredded kale or other
  leafy greens (see glossary, p. 119)
3 Tbs. butter or margarine
Salt and black pepper to taste

Cook potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine milk, green onions and kale. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Drain potatoes and mash thoroughly with butter. Gradually beat in milk mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Serve right away.

Per serving: 323 cal.; 8g prot.; 7g total fat (4g sat. fat); 58g carb.; 20mg chol.; 124mg sod.; 7g fiber:

Dilled Green Beans

6 TO 8 SERVINGS LACTO

With its cool climate and wide open spaces, Scandinavia is where dill grows in abundance; in the United States, it's the most popular of their flavorings.

2 lbs. fresh green beans, trimmed
3 Tbs. butter or margarine
1 Tbs. all-purpose flour
2 Tbs. prepared grated horseradish,
  drained (optional)
1 1/4 cups low-fat or skim milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

Cook beans in boiling salted water until tender, about 6 minutes. Meanwhile, in medium saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Stir in flour and horseradish if using, and stir constantly 1 minute. Gradually whisk in milk. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in dill and pour sauce over beans. Serve hot.

Per serving: 95 cal.; 3g prot.; 6g total fat (4g sat. fat); 8g carb.; 18mg chol.; 133mg sod,; 2g fiber,

Sweet Potato Bake

6 TO 8 SERVINGS LACTO

The sweet potato is a well-traveled vegetable with origins firmly embedded in the "New World." I had never eaten one until I came to live here--even though Christopher Columbus had brought it to England from one of his voyages, and it had become a fast favorite of King Henry VIII. A dish such as this one, flavored with pineapple juice and spices, bows to the talents of the African slaves who created colorful, flavorful dishes that still remain tasty centuries later.

4 medium sweet potatoes (about 8 oz.
  each) peeled and sliced
  1/4 inch thick
6 Tbs. frozen pineapple juice concentrate,
  thawed
1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice
3 Tbs. melted butter or margarine

Preheat oven to 400 [degrees] F. Lightly oil a 10- by 12-inch ovenproof dish.

In large bowl, combine all ingredients until well coated. Layer slices in dish. Cover with foil and bake until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm.

Per serving: 188 cal.; 26 prot.; 6g total fat (4g sat. fat); 32g carb.; 15mg chol.; 72mg sod.; 3g fiber.

Rich Almond Cake

6 TO 8 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

Recipes for sponge cakes have traveled the world with families determined to bring a taste of "the old country" with them to their new home. Almonds have been used for centuries in Eastern European cakes, bread and pastries. Serve in a pool of Cranberrry-Orange Compote (see following recipe).

2 cups natural almonds (10 oz.)
1 cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
1 Tbs. grated orange peel
8 large egg whites
1/2 tsp. salt
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour, sifted
Confectioners' sugar (optional)
Cranberry-Orange Compote (see below)

Preheat oven to 350 [degrees] F. Butter and flour a 8 1/2-inch round springform pan. Line bottom with waxed paper.

In food processor, pulse almonds until finely ground. (It is important not to over grind and produce a paste.) Transfer almonds to a bowl and add sugar and orange peel; mix well.

In large bowl, using an electric mixer, whisk egg whites and salt until stiff peaks are formed. Fold in almonds a little at a time. Take care not to over mix. Sift flour again, a little at a time, over mixture and gently fold in. Transfer mixture to prepared pan.

Bake in center of oven until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Allow cake to cool for 10 minutes before releasing from pan. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Transfer cake to serving plate and dust top with confectioners' sugar if desired.

Per serving: 379 cal.; 12g prot.; 16g total fat (2g sat. fat); 50g carb.; 0 chol.; 255mg sod.; 4g fiber.

Cranberry-Orange Compote

MAKES 4 CUPS DAIRY-FREE

If preferred, mixture can be blended in a foodprocessor until smooth.

12-oz. bag fresh or frozen cranberries
  (3 cups)
2 Tbs. grated orange peel
1 1/2 cups orange juice
1 cup granulated sugar or to taste
2 Tbs. orange flavored liqueur (optional)

In heavy medium saucepan, combine cranberries, orange peel, juice and sugar. Simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until cranberries soften, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

Stir in liqueur just before serving. Can be made 4 weeks ahead and frozen or up to 3 days ahead and kept refrigerated.

PER 1/2-CUP SERVING: 138 cal.; 0 prot.; 0 total fat (0 sat. fat); 35g carb.; 0 chol.; 1mg sod.; 2g fiber.

Pumpkin Flan

8 SERVINGS OVO-LACTO

One of the most widely enjoyed Mexican desserts is flan, a delicious baked-egg custard coated with a light caramel. The addition of pureed pumpkin to the recipe reduces the level of sweetness without spoiling the creamy texture.

Caramel

3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup water

1/3 cup granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1 cup unseasoned pumpkin puree
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups 10w-fat milk

Caramel: In small, heavy saucepan melt 3/4 cup sugar over low heat, stirring occasionally. Increase heat to medium and cook, without stirring, until caramel turns dark golden. Watch carefully and do not allow to burn. Remove from heat and add water. (Mixture will spit a lot.) Return to low heat and stir until liquid. Carefully pour into 8 small ramekins or custard dishes, tilting each one to coat the sides a little. Set dishes aside in a roasting pan.

Preheat oven to 325 [degrees] F, In large bowl, whisk sugar and eggs until smooth. Beat in pumpkin puree, cinnamon and vanilla. Stir in milk. Divide mixture among ramekins. Pour enough cold water into pan to come halfway up the sides of ramekins. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until just set. Remove ramekins from water and set on wire rack to cool. Chill in refrigerator until ready to serve.

To serve, unmold each ramekin onto individual serving plates.

Per serving: 171 cal.; 5g prot.; 3g total fat (16 sat. fat), 32g carb.; 108mg chol.; 56mg sod.; 1g fiber.

Transplanted English food writer Sarah Bush brings her own spin to the pleasures of the Thanksgiving table.

COPYRIGHT 1998 Sabot Publishing
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group