Wilderness & wildlife appreciation at the heart of Belize

"Belize has much to teach the rest of the world!"

So said our first day's tour guide. Ten days later we agreed.

Belize backgrounder

Belize is a delight. Its 170,000 people are a mix of African, Creole, Mayan, Carib, mestizo, Asian and European, with no aristocracy of race or color.

Because it was British Honduras until 1981 the official tongue is English, but the street language is largely Creole, and Spanish seeps in from neighboring countries.

Now a member of the British Commonwealth, Belize has received much aid from other members. Canada built and operates the water system, so one can drink the city water. Roads, bridges, a stadium and other works have been contributed. A new hospital is planned.

Conservation efforts have been assisted by World Wildlife Fund, Program for Belize, Wildlife Conservation International, The Nature Conservancy and others. The Belize Audubon Society is influential and assists in operating the national parks.

Belize City has several large international hotels. We were the only guests at the 12-room El Centro downtown, a modest but clean and pleasant establishment with four parrots and a pair of chow dogs in the walled patio.

Teacher/guide

When we asked about tours, the desk clerk recommended Maurice Bernard. He appeared early the next morning. We've never had a better-informed or more amiable guide.

"Mentor" is a better label. Maurice was eager to have us see and understand his country.

He lectured enthusiastically as we traveled in his well-kept station wagon: history, geography, economics and sociology. He often paused in mid-sentence to point out a jacana, snail kite, iguana or howler monkey.

He knows plants, too, not just their names but how they have been used.

What Belize has to teach the world, he persuaded us, is that rain forests, mangroves and other natural resources can be preserved. Most of his country still is rain forest. Wildlife is abundant.

Environmental laws are strict and strictly enforced. Industries that would pollute or damage the environment aren't welcome. Most hunting is prohibited. Gun ownership is regulated. A fisherman who takes lobster out of season may forfeit his boat.

It's not all laws and regulations. The Community Baboon Sanctuary is a voluntary compact signed by 72 local farmers. (Howler monkeys are "baboons.") Each farmer has agreed to preserve his part of the riverside forest and other essential baboon habitats.

One can withdraw from the pact, but no one has. Indeed, the baboons have become a matter of local pride. The farmers have built overhead runways for baboons to cross the road safely.

On our first day we toured Altun Ha (a major Mayan archaeological site), Guanacaste National Park, the Baboon Sanctuary, the new Belize Zoo and many intermediate points. Maurice doesn't watch the clock; we left early, returned late.

Wilderness lodge

Tom and Josie Harding, proprietors of Chan Chich Lodge, had arranged with Javier Air to fly us to the airstrip at Gallon Jug.

John sat in the copilot seat. The seat beside Jane was occupied by five dozen eggs. The little Cessna flew most of the way at 500 feet - fine for jungle sightseeing.

Gallon Jug is headquarters of a handsome private farm; the owner has bought 125,000 acres of rain forest to preserve it. U.S.-based Program for Belize has bought an adjoining 150,000 acres. Chan Chich is at the heart of this huge wilderness.

Tom designed and built the thatch-roof lodge and 12 spacious cabins with local materials. The grounds resemble a Mayan plaza surrounded by temple mounds. Each cabin has two queen-size beds, electricity, and a deck on all four sides with chairs and hammocks.

The lodge, also surrounded by a deck, has dining room, bar, lounge and shop. Grounds are landscaped with flowering plants. Rafters of colorful ocellated turkeys stroll about.

The hardworking staff was friendly and efficient. The lawns were raked each morning.

Radiating from the plaza into the rain forest are miles of well-maintained trails. Guides lead morning, afternoon and night walks.

We walked alone, using the 64-page guide to the amazing array of orchids, bromeliads, fungi, vines, palms, figs and towering trees. Muddy patches make nonskid shoes or boots advisable.

Chan Chich opened in December 1988. With no paid advertising, it soon was booked months ahead. Many guests are bird-watchers. They can add to their life lists while sitting on the lodge deck.

Tom, Josie and Josie's brother Norman usually are nearby to spot bat falcons, roadside hawks and guans.

Visitors also can swim, canoe or go horseback riding.

Belize City

Back in Belize City we enjoyed another day with Maurice, visiting more parks and preserves. Wherever we stopped he was greeted as a friend. He's an active member of the Belize Audubon Society.

We had expected to be back at the hotel by 5, but Maurice insisted on giving us a tour of the city, including a stop at his home.

Many tourists transfer immediately from the Belize International Airport to San Pedro or one of the other cayes for swimming, scuba diving and fishing.

The coral reefs are among the world's best. We flew over the island chain, admiring the deep-blue water. Next time, perhaps.

Useful data

You may wish to contact the following.

* Maurice Bernard, #7 F St., Belize City, Belize, C.A.; office phone, 501/2-31153, and home phone 501/2-30909.

* Chan Chich Lodge U.S. office: P.O. Box 1088, Vineyard Haven, MA 02568; phone 800/343-8009, or fax 508/693-6311.

COPYRIGHT 1993 Martin Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group