Looking after No.1

ONE Devonshire Gardens must be Glasgow's most exclusive hotel. The buttocks of such luminaries as Bob Dylan, Tina Turner and Phil Collins have all parked themselves on the sumptuous upholstery of this very high class joint, but the management recently announced they hope to change the perception of the hotel as a more relaxed and informal venue for dinner. Ever one to suffer for my art, I trucked along on Wednesday evening.

Arriving at the hotel, just off Great Western Road, there is no obvious sign which door to go in. We were spotted meandering aimlessly and pursued along the road by the very charming German manager, who invited us in, took our coats and led us into the drawing room.

We collapsed into a couple of easy chairs with a drink and started munching on the resident herb olives and whole almonds as we flipped through the menu. It was like sitting in someone's house ... someone very rich's house. The colours are muted, the sofas gigantic and the atmosphere very comfortable. The sommelier took our wine order - not a very informal touch. We plumped for the South African house white, De Wetshof,which at at #19 was one of the cheapest options. Anne chose Foie Gras Parfait (#9. 50) to start. The portion was generous and the noises emanating from her mouth loud, so I snuck a taste. It was sublime. Having been in Perigord on holiday many a year ago and coming out in goose bumps whilst watching how they produce foie gras, I had never tasted it. Well, sorry goosey gander, the party's over. I am a convert. Home-smoked lobster (#12.50) was my choice. Half a lobster warm with a lime dressing, the flesh was plump and juicy. The kitchen even went to the trouble of taking the meat out of the fiddly bits. Anne, Miss Ideologically Sound, plumped for cutlet of veal (#22). She had expected a small bijou piece of veal but this was a loin cutlet and inhabited most of her large plate. The flesh was too pink for her and not consumed with the same joie de vivre as the foie gras. However, the dauphinoise potatoes were horsed down fairly sharpish so it is only second hand that I report they were delicious. Pave of potato, roasted vegetables and goat's cheese was my main course (#26.50). Presented in a perfect ramekin shape, the vegetables were fresh, yet flexible enough to be wrapped around the warm, melty and rich goat's cheese. Sitting atop this were half a dozen fresh rocket leaves, which added the necessary peppery zing that completed the taste. We were informed at the start of our meal there are two sweets which require 25 minutes preparation and to consider this whilst eating your main dish. We were too busy wheezing with laughter and coveting all the furniture to think about such things and when the word sweet trolley was uttered we jumped at it, almost literally when we saw it. Yum. The trolley held nine different sweets. Anne went for lemon and raspberry cheesecake, which was so light and fluffy it was almost mousse-like, with the delicate flavour of fresh rasps and lemon adding to the sensation. She chose a ground coffee bean sauce to accompany it and ranted on about its perfection. I selected the apricot and almond tart which was disappointing. The pastry was a bit flat and the fruity nutty filling failed to lift it. I did force down two selections from the trolley though, and the pear poached in white wine that accompanied it was fresh, juicy and sweet. We retired to the lounge for coffee. Double espresso for my pal and white coffee for me totalled #7. Really rich home-made petit fours arrived with it, and we ate them all. Alison Craig

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