Number up for soulless rivals

Place: Bar 38 Address: 126 George Street, Edinburgh Telephone: 0131-220 6180 Opening hours: Sun, 10am-midnight; Mon-Sat 10am-1am Other information:

#2.45-#2.70 a pint

IF you're looking to get ripped-off in the Scottish capital, George Street is probably your best bet. Visit one of the many designer boutiques and you can blow your entire pay packet on a pair of fancy undies.

If you're looking to satisfy your more basic needs, however, the only thing on offer is an ever-burgeoning collection of soulless bar and restaurant chains, where you can expect to pay top whack for decidedly average services. But hold on, booze big-wigs Scottish & Newcastle seem to have got the formula right at last with Bar 38.

It's not exactly your homely local tavern, but the Edinburgh branch of this London chain is a surprisingly laid-back affair. For a start you get none of the bitchy label-checking here so common in other establishments on this stretch. And you won't feel totally left out if you're not brandishing a mobile phone, although basic pack mentality suggests it would be wise. Similarly if you're not young, gorgeous and earning 40K+ you won't leave feeling traumatised.

People of all shapes and sizes loll about in booths and at the wooden tables and chairs of this bright, airy and extraordinarily spacious bar. If anything, the cosy minimalism of the interior creates a rather empty whole, but it's a minor point and, come Friday night, every inch of that floor space is needed.

The bar is worked by cool kids who are attentive, if not always efficient. But it's worth grumbling - we were plied with freebies after our order was mixed up.

The real highlight, though, is the toilets. You pee as usual, with brick walls separating the boys from the girls, but then everyone washes their hands together at communal basins. Should the excitement leave you feeling all flustered there are even big comfy seats at the ring-side - talent-spotting has never been easier.

Claire Prentice

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