Lackluster cuisine is only tarnish on Island Princess' crown/

The Island Princess still had that "new-car smell" when I came aboard in late September, a little over two months since Princess Cruises christened the French-built ship.

As the cruise line has quick turnaround times between trips, the ship and its crew were already veterans of several Alaska voyages. Most of the kinks associated with new ships and crews had been worked out.

I had a cabin on the Aloha Deck, the 12th up from the bottom. There's no 13th deck, so I was only one deck below the Lido Deck, with its pools and bars.

My spacious cabin came with a queen bed, two chairs, a television, a desk and ample storage. There was a small bathroom with a shower and a big nonspecific landscape print hung on the wall. Most cabins have private balconies. If you want to join friends or family in the cabin next door, a small locked door to the next balcony can be unlatched to allow for a communal gathering spot.

Though every stateroom on my voyage was sold out, the Island Princess felt crowded only in the pool and buffet areas. On the Promenade Deck (Deck 7), it's even possible to find some solitude. Free satellite television and an Internet cafe (35 cents per minute) kept the Type-A personalities tethered to reality.

The excellent library, stocked with recent biographies, history books and novels, was the choice of those looking for a more sedate experience. The usual Broadway revues, movie screenings, cabarets and jazz bands, along with a good-size Paris-themed casino, were available for those looking for the typical cruise experiences.

The Crooners martini bar poured surprisingly strong drinks, while smokers could retire to Churchill Lounge to burn their Havana cigars purchased in Canada before arriving in the States, where they are illegal (the ship doesn't sell Cuban cigars).

The biggest disappointment was the food. Dinner in the Bayou Cafe, with a $10 surcharge, was very good. The peppered lobster tail was firm and flavorful, and the seafood gumbo was topped with two large crawfish. My dinner in Provence, one of two main dining rooms, featured a tasty if somewhat dry swordfish fillet.

The buffet and grill restaurants were the big disappointments. Items in the buffet ranging from bacon in the morning to shrimp at night were routinely undercooked. The worst were the hamburgers at the poolside grill, made en masse then reheated. After a bite, mine went in the trash. The coffee throughout the ship was abysmal (Hello, Starbucks?), with only specialty coffees in the Patisserie cafe rising above the level of swill.

Some fellow travelers who were critical of the food said the Italian-theme Sabatini Restaurant, with a $20 surcharge, was excellent. With only two nights on the ship, I didn't have a chance to check it out.

Passengers were a surprisingly eclectic mix, perhaps because of the short, discounted nature of the trip. Couples in their 40s and 50s predominated, but there were also senior citizens, tour groups, families and singles. Despite the official "smart casual" clothing designation, many people chose to dress up for the evening, particularly on the final night of the cruise, lending the ship an air of class not often found on discount cruises.

Repositioning cruises have a bad reputation because cruise lines often cut corners on what is essentially moving day for a ship. Princess to its credit had all its venues open and well-staffed.

Overall, it was an excellent experience, with good value for the price. The Island Princess is a big ship that rarely seemed crowded, with lots to do for those who want to be busy and yet pockets of solitude for anyone wishing to only commune with the sea. Food is an area needing improvement.

CONTACT THE WRITER: Warner can be reached at (888) 436-0026 or by e-mail at [email protected].

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