Seaside village offers a world of possibilities

There was no mistaking the impressive 6-foot wingspan of the bird that soared high above the indigo-hued Casco Bay.

"That's a bald eagle?" asked a woman named Adrianna as she glanced toward the sky. The fortyish blonde from Mississippi then exclaimed to the group aboard the cruise vessel Atlantic Seal, "Y'all aren't going to believe this, but I have never seen a bald eagle in the wild. I had no idea they were so huge!"

Edging the sparkling blue waters of Casco Bay, the seaside village of Freeport, Maine, features a world of possibilities, including sailings on the Atlantic Seal. Offering daily departures from the Freeport Town Wharf, Atlantic Seal guests are afforded spectacular views of the more than 180 islands of Casco Bay and the Harraseeket River.

As the boat moves smoothly along, you'll see harbor seals frolic on rocks, watch playful ospreys flutter above the surf and, if you're as fortunate as Adrianna, glimpse a rare bald eagle as it glides above the tree line.

Your first impression of Freeport -- population about 7,800 -- may be that it is just another quaint New England town. It is that, and so much more.

The air has the faintest hint of salty sea. Add the pastel- colored historic buildings and flower-lined streets -- geraniums, ivy, pansies, petunias and snapdragons seem to fill nearly every corner -- and you've got quite a pleasant backdrop for a walking tour of the town.

There are more than 40 historic homes and buildings on the walking tour, which takes you back to 1789, when Freeport was incorporated. Rich maritime architecture houses many of the town's more than 170 upscale shops, from Patagonia Outlet to Polo Ralph Lauren to the worldwide headquarters of the family-run L.L. Bean, whose retail store is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, 365 days a year. The garishness of neon is not a part of the aesthetics of this town; even chain restaurants like McDonald's and Taco Bell are pleasantly disguised as historic buildings.

But shopping in Freeport doesn't end with big-name outlet stores. There are oodles of one-of-a-kind shops like Claire Murray, whose vibrant hook-design rugs feature seashells, Cape Cod and Nantucket scenes, and much more. The Maine Bear Factory offers made-to-order, handmade teddy bears. And Cuddledown of Maine specializes in high- quality down comforters and pillows. You can find handcrafted pins and ornaments at Off-Season Elves, while the Mangy Moose features, naturally, "moosey" items.

There's more to Freeport than shopping and history, though. The entire area contains a wealth of nature-related activities. The Maine Wildlife Park in Gray, just north of Freeport, is a refuge for a variety of wildlife, including mountain lions, black bear and even the occasional moose. Begun in 1931 as a place to raise ringed-neck pheasants, it's now a sort of rehabilitation clinic for animals and birds that have been injured, orphaned or illegally captured and not yet ready to be released back into the wild.

Wolfe's Neck Farm is a 650-acre farm on Casco Bay that offers an intriguing look into the world of organic and salt marsh farming, while Wolfe's Neck Woods State Park has five miles of scenic trails. The Maine Audubon Society-Mast Landing Sanctuary also has nature trails designed specifically for bird-watching. And the slightly offbeat Swan Island, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, combines a wildlife sanctuary with historic structures that date to the 1700s.

Then there's the Desert of Maine, a series of sand dunes and trails that offer a taste of a Sahara safari. In 1797, the William Tuttle family moved to a 300-acre farm where they grew potatoes and hay. Their failure to rotate crops, combined with land clearing and overgrazing, culminated in severe soil erosion that exposed the hidden desert.

Of special interest to the adventurous are the L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools. From April through November, you can take courses in outdoor activities that include canoeing, kayaking, fly-fishing, wing shooting (clay targets), archery or wilderness training. From November through March, cold-weather aficionados can try courses in cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, winter camping and outdoor photography. Classes are available for beginners to advanced students, and last anywhere from a few hours to a few days.

If you want to eat like a Mainer, then you have to start by talking like a Mainer -- so "lobster" is pronounced "lob-STAH" and "chowder," of course, becomes "chow-DAH." But no matter the pronunciation, Freeport fare is rich, succulent and buttery, so don't even think "diet."

Traditional Down East seafood platters spilling over with locally caught haddock, shrimp and scallops, are paired with desserts made from blueberries, raspberries and strawberries grown in the bountiful pastures surrounding Freeport.

Part of the fun of visiting Freeport is the wide range of accommodations available. The Harraseeket Inn, a AAA-Four Diamond property, is considered the crown jewel of the town. Run by the Gray family, the antique-filled, classically historic inn encompasses two period buildings, one dating to 1798, and the other to 1850. There are two restaurants at the inn, the Maine Dining Room for fine dining, and the more casual Broad Arrow Tavern, which has an open kitchen and wood-fired oven and grill.

The Freeport Inn & Cafe is set atop a gently rolling hill and offers windswept lawns and a tidal river that flows through the property. Two of Freeport's finest restaurants, the Cafe and the Muddy Rudder, are located here. The Cafe offers up dinners and has its own bakery, while the Muddy Rudder serves to-die-for fresh seafood, including scrumptious crab cakes.

There are also a number of bed-and-breakfasts from which to choose, including the Applewood Inn, built in 1864 and complemented with brightly colored paintings and hand-hewn artwork; the Brewster House, a three-story accommodation built in 1888; the Atlantic Seal, offering spectacular views of the Harraseeket River; the Captain Briggs House, a Federal-style lodging built in 1853; and the White Cedar Inn, a historic Victorian home with lots of oversize windows. The whimsical Maine Idyll Motor Court is a throwback to a simpler time.

The Atlantic Seal B&B and cruise vessel are both owned by Thomas Ring.

Freeport enchants at every turn. And there is no cold New England reserve here; the residents are warm and friendly. As the days slip into evenings and constellations light up the night, sleep will come quickly. The quietness of Freeport offers the perfect antidote to modern stresses.

For more information on Freeport's visitor, lodging, dining, marine and shopping opportunities, contact the Freeport Merchants Association toll-free at (800) 865-1994 or visit the Web site at www.freeportmaine.com.

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