文章基本信息

标题：A Model-Derived Empirical Formulation for Wave Run-Up on Naturally Sloping Beaches
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作者：Maarten van Ormondt ; Dano Roelvink ; Ap van Dongeren 等
期刊名称：Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
电子版ISSN：2077-1312
出版年度：2021
卷号：9
期号：11
页码：1185
DOI：10.3390/jmse9111185
语种：English
出版社：MDPI AG
摘要：A new set of empirical formulations has been derived to predict wave run-up at naturally sloping sandy beaches. They are obtained by fitting the results of hundreds of XBeach-NH+ model simulations. The simulations are carried out over a wide range of offshore wave conditions (wave heights ranging from 1 to 12 m and periods from 6 to 16 s), and surf zone (Dean parameters aD ranging from 0.05 to 0.30) and beach geometries (slopes ranging from 1:100 to 1:5). The empirical formulations provide estimates of wave set-up, incident and infragravity wave run-up, and total run-up R2%. Reduction coefficients are included to account for the effects of incident wave angle and directional spreading. The formulations have been validated against the Stockdon dataset and show better skill at predicting R2% run-up than the widely used Stockdon relationships. Unlike most existing run-up predictors, the relations presented here include the effect of the surf zone slope, which is shown to be an important parameter for predicting wave run-up. Additionally, this study shows a clear relationship between infragravity run-up and beach slope, unlike most existing predictors.