文章基本信息

标题：THE RELIABILITY OF THE DIFFICULTY GRADING OF SPORT CLIMBING ROUTES
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作者：Bojan Leskošek ; Rok Blagus
期刊名称：Kinesiologia Slovenica
印刷版ISSN：1318-2269
电子版ISSN：2232-4062
出版年度：2021
卷号：27
期号：1
页码：5-20
语种：English
出版社：University of Ljubljana
摘要：This is the first study aiming to evaluate the reliability of assigning a difficulty grade to a climb. Each of the 70 climbers, divided by their abilities into group A (intermediate) and group B (advanced), climbed 5 different routes, and independently suggested a grade for the routes. Although the reliability was generally high (Kendall W = .89 and .86, intraclass correlation coefficient ICC = .82 and .89 in groups A and B, respectively), the grades proposed by a single climber have too large a standard error of measurement to confidently claim that two routes with different grades are truly of different difficulties. The most important factor associated with the accuracy and bias of grading, was the gap between a climber's ability and a route's difficulty (easier routes were graded less accurate, advanced climbers underestimated the true difficulty of the routes). The following factors were also found important for grading; their effect however, was lower, or was only found in some routes or in one group: success (failed attempts were graded higher), tiredness, sex and body height (but only unadjusted for sex). Surprisingly, no significant effects were found for climbing experience, ability level, and style of climbing (onsight, flash).
其他摘要：Gre za prvo raziskavo zanesljivosti ocenjevanja v športnem plezanju. Vsak od 70 plezalcev, po sposobnostih razdeljenih v skupini A (srednja) in B (visoka), je poskusil preplezati 5 različnih smeri in neodvisno od ostalih predlagal oceno težavnosti smeri. Čeprav je bila zanesljivost ocenjevanja na splošno visoka (v skupinah A in B: Kendall W = 0,89 in 0,86, koeficient intraklasne korelacije ICC = 0,82 in 0,89 ), imajo ocene, ki jih predlaga en sam plezalec, preveliko standardno napako merjenja, da bi lahko za dve smeri podobnih težavnosti zanesljivo trdili, da se težavnost teh dve smeri v resnici razlikuje. Najpomembnejši dejavnik, povezan z natančnostjo in pristranskostjo ocenjevanja, je bila razlika med plezalno sposobnostjo plezalca in zahtevnostjo smeri (lahke smeri so bile nasploh ocenjene manj natančno, visoko sposobni plezalci pa so podcenjevali resnično težavnost lahkih smeri). Za ocenjevanje smeri so bili pomembni tudi naslednji dejavniki, ki pa imajo manjši vpliv ali pa se je vpliv kazal samo v nekaterih smereh ali skupinah plezalcev (A ali B): uspeh vzpona (neuspeli poskusi so bili ocenjeni višje), utrujenost, spol in telesna višina (slednja le neprilagojena za spol). Presenetljivo pa plezalne izkušnje, stopnja plezalne sposobnosti (A ali B) in slog plezanja (na pogled, flash) niso pomembno vplivali na zanesljivost ali pristranskost ocenjevanja.
关键词：rock climbing;performance;accuracy, validity
其他关键词：plezanje;zmogljivost;natančnost veljavnost